Visiting Dubuque Iowa

dubuque iowa skyline

Things to See and Do Visiting Dubuque, Iowa

History of Dubuque

Located on the Iowa side of the Upper Mississippi Great River Road Scenic Drive, Dubuque holds claim to Iowa’s oldest city. Named after French-Canadian fur trader Julien Dubuque, who arrived in the area in 1785 and set up a trading post on the Mississippi River. Learning of the existence of lead deposits in the area he began mining operations cooperating with the Mesquakie Indians who had lived in the area for years. The mining community he established was known as the Mines of Spain. This later spawned the settlement of the city of Dubuque, which was chartered in 1837.

While lead mining and trade as a key port on the Mississippi were key to its early development, it later added other industries like button making, boat building, logging, mill working, meat packing, and other heavy industries. After experiencing a downturn in its local economy in the 1970s through the 1990s, the city initiated an economic revival that had “. . . five anchor components: the Mississippi Riverwalk, the National Mississippi River Museum and Aquarium, the Grand River Center, the Grand Harbor Resort, and the Star Brewery.”

Dubuque River Walk
Dubuque River Walk and Art on the River

In addition to offering these visitor and tourist attractions, Dubuque has become a major retail, medical, education and employment center for the tri-state area.

Top Dubuque Visitor Attractions

Whenever we visit Dubuque, we always find time to take in the Riverwalk with its panoramic views of the Mississippi River, isolation from the hustle and bustle of the city, and its interesting artistic sculptures sprinkled along the walk. The Grand River Center, a unique architectural creation, is a prominent center-piece along the Riverwalk. At the end of the Riverwalk is the restored historic Star Brewery building which now houses a mini-brewery museum, a fine restaurant, and the tasting room of the Stone Cliff Winery, among other attractions.

stone cliff winery outdoor cafe
The Stone Cliff Winery Bar is located in the historic Star Brewery Complex.
Dubuque Clock Tower
Dubuque Clock Tower with the 1891 County Courthouse in the background.
Dubuque Mississippi River Museum
At the Mississippi River Museum and Aquarium, Jo and the kids look at the turtles. Interactive exhibits on the river in the background.

Another favorite Dubuque attraction is the National Mississippi River Museum and Aquarium. It anchors the other end of the Riverwalk built along the lagoon called the Ice Harbor. Filled with interactive exhibits and educational displays, it is easy to spend several hours exploring all that it has to offer. In fact the admission ticket is good for two consecutive days as for some people they would need two days to see everything.

mississippi river museum
Gulf of Mexico tank at the National Mississippi River Aquarium

And still another regular part of visiting Dubuque is taking a walk downtown past the historic Julien Dubuque Hotel, past the Bell Tower, and a stroll along Bluff Street to Cable Car Square visiting boutiques and specialty shops.

Once at Cable Car Square, taking a ride up the hill on the Fenlon Place Elevator is a must for any Dubuque visitor (see our slide show below). Originally built in 1882 by a downtown banker who lived on the top of the bluffs in order to save an hour buggy ride round trip to work and back. Years later the Fenlon Place Elevator Company was formed and the cable car served all the neighbors who lived on top of the bluff.

The incline railway takes you up to the top of the Bluff where the station deck offers terrific views of downtown Dubuque and the Mississippi River. We usually take the bluff trail walk down from the top of the bluff for the exercise, but if you buy a round trip ticket you can take the incline railway back to the Square and avoid the walk.

Slide Show: Riding the Fenlon Place Incline Railway


  • fenlon railway dubuque
    Here is where passengers board the incline railway to the top of the hill
  • fenlon cable car dubuque
    Jo and the kids getting excited for the ride up the hill.
  • fenlon place elevator
    The Cable Car goes both directions, you can ride up or ride down.
  • dubuque overlook fenlon station
    The kids enjoying the view from the bluff-top station deck.

Scenic Overlooks

You get a great view of the downtown and river from the top of Fenlon Place. Another great view of the river and the Dubuque River Front is from the top of Eagle Point Park.

Campgrounds

Another park, Miller Riverview park, is located adjacent to the river and offers a picnic area and RV and tent camping. More RV camping is offered at the Dubuque Yacht basin. Both of these RV campgrounds can be difficult to snag a site at so we more often camp across the river at the Grant River Corps park near Potosi.

Golfing.

The city has a municipal golf course, Bunker Hill, which offers 18 holes suitable for beginning through intermediate golfers. Across the river, Lacoma Golf Course offers 36 holes of regulation and championship golf plus a nice little par 3 course. It is one of our favorite golfing spots in the area. (See our reviews of Dubuque Golf Courses)

Gaming and Cruises

Other Dubuque recreational attractions include two Casinos, a Greyhound Race Track, and Riverboat Cruises.

Unique Dining in Dubuque Area

Catfish Charies Restaurant
Catfish Charlies Seafood Restaurant overlooks the Dubuque Yacht Basin.

When we are staying in the Dubuque area there are two other places we try to include on our visit. One is dining at the historic Breitbach Country Tavern in little Balltown, Iowa about 16 miles north of Dubuque on Iowa’s highest bluff overlooking the Mississippi River. Breitbach is Iowa’s oldest continually operating tavern and restaurant, being run by the Breitbach family for six generations. The other significant attraction is across the river in the little river town of Potosi: The historic Potosi Brewery and Brewery Museum. Fascinating tour of the brewing facilities, the outstanding artifacts and memorabilia in the Brewery Museum, and excellent food and fresh brewed beer in the brewpub tap room.

Dubuque Attractions – Visitor Links:

Nearby Dubuque Attractions

Traveling the Upper Mississippi Great River Road

Favorite Scenic Fall Color Drives

Fall color along Highway 92 south of Mount Horeb, Wisconsin
Fall color along Highway 92 south of Mount Horeb, Wisconsin
Fall Color Drive – Mt. Horeb to Monroe

Wisconsin, Minnesota, UP Fall Color

October 3, 2022. Fall color change is beginning in Wisconsin; we are starting to see the lime green peeking out among the wooded hillsides. Looks like it might be a week or two before Peak Color. But cool and dry weather is coming in a few days so that could produce some changes quickly.

The earliest fall color will occur in Northern Wisconsin from Vilas County to Hurley-Ironwood in the western Upper Peninsula. But timing your trip to catch real good color can be fickle and sometimes catching the earliest color doesn’t mean catching the best!

For your upcoming scenic fall color drive planning, I am listing lower down this page some of our earlier ScenicPathways articles on some of our favorite scenic fall color drives in Wisconsin, along the Mississippi Great River Road, and around Lake Superior.

Fall color St. Croix Interstate Park
Hiking along the river bluffs at St. Croix Interstate Park
Effigy Mounds Park Fall Color Scene
There were some nice splashes of fall color in mid-October at Effigy Mounds National Park

tahquamenon falls fall color
The Upper Falls at Tahquamenon Falls State Park, Upper Peninsula Fall Color Drive
fall color mn hwy 371
Fall color along the scenic drive to Lake Itaska, the headwaters of the Mississippi River.

Fall Color Drives – Wisconsin, Minnesota, Upper Peninsula

Wisconsin Travel – Fall Color Report

Scenic Road Trip: Wisconsin Great River Road

LaCrosse Wisconsin Riverside Park

Top things to see and do from Dubuque to La Crosse – Great River Road The Great River Road is described by RVTravel.com as “One of America’s Best Road Trips.” The Upper Midwest hosts the most scenic road trips along the Great River Road. During the Ice Age, the Mississippi River created steep limestone and … Read more

Best Wisconsin Great River Road RV Parks & Campgrounds

Nelson Dewey State Park

Taking a Road Trip along the Wisconsin Mississippi Great River Road? To help you plan your trip, I review the top campgrounds for RV travelers or campers. The list Campground Reviews is organized from South to North, beginning North of East Dubuque. At the end of the article is a Google Maps with links to … Read more

Mississippi Headwaters Fall Color

mississippi headwaters Lake Itaska

Fall Color Scenic Drive – Itaska State Park In the first week of October, with two other couples, Jo and I took a fall color drive to the headwaters of the headwaters of the Mississippi River at Lake Itaska and Itaska State Park. We had previously stopped at St. Croix Falls Interstate Park for a … Read more

Pikes Peak Campground

Pikes Peak Scenic Lookout

Our Review of Pikes Peak Iowa State Park, RV Camping & Hiking Located across the river from Prairie Du Chien, Wisconsin Pikes Peak is one of our favorite RV campgrounds along the Mississippi Great River Road (see our reviews of other best River Road RV Campsites). It is located high on a bluff above the … Read more

Mississippi Palisades Campground

mississippi palisades park

RV Campground Review: Mississippi Palisades State Park Located a short distance North of Savanna, Illinois the Mississippi Palisades is an Illinois State Park and Campground. Portions of the park include high steep sided bluffs looming over the Mississippi River valley. We like the Palisades park for the numerous scenic overlooks of the Mississippi and its … Read more

Grant River Corps of Engineering RV Campground

mississippi river sunset

RV Campground Review: Grant River Recreation Area – Potosi, Wisconsin

Grant River is one of our favorite Corps Parks. Located on the banks of the Mississippi River, it has nice mature trees offering lots of shade options for the camp sites. Modern full service washrooms with showers kept spotlessly clean. Lots of frontage along the river with benches every 100 feet or so offering a pleasant places to sit and watch the river roll by. There isn’t a lot of activity on the river itself, largely free of the sound of jet skis and power boats charging back and forth disturbing the tranquility. But there is an adjacent boat launch for fisherman and a large parking area for trailers.

grant river campground
Spacious, well-planned camp sites with shade at least part of the day.

The sites are level and concrete and the road throughout park is paved. The heavy, substantial picnic tables are well-maintained and stand on a well-drained gravel pad with a fire-ring and grill. The sites are electric-only with 20, 30, and 50 amp service. No water hydrants at each site, but several hydrants are sprinkled throughout the campground for convenient refilling. There is adequate spacing and green space between the camp sites. A few of the camp sites are dedicated for tent campers and provide very adequate spacing away from other camp sites.

grant river campground
This may be an original Shasta camper. Looks in good shape.

Just north of the campground is a day use area with a picnic pavilion, a boat ramp and dock, and lots of parking space.


grant river corps park
Watching the sun go down at Grant River Corps park

Things to See and Do at Grant River Corps Park

Besides hanging out at the campsite, we enjoy hiking around the park, enjoying the scenic views of the river, and biking both around the park and to the Potosi Brewery for a brew or food (see our review). The National Brewery Museum is also located at the Brewery and is a fun and interesting look at the history of brewing with stories and pictures from former breweries in Wisconsin and across the nation.

Potosi Brewery
One of our favorite things to do at Grant River Corps park is dine at the Potosi Brewery

For bikers, the rustic rural road that runs from Potosi’s main street to the park isn’t that busy with traffic and is a scenic bike ride over a mostly level terrain. More enthusiastic bikers can take the return trip along Brewery Hollow Road (a Wisconsin scenic rural road) back to the campground. And even more enthusiastic bikers can take the scenic River Road 20 miles north to Cassville and the Stonefield Village Historic Site.

When we have the grand kids or grand nephews/nieces with us they enjoy fishing from the banks of the river and the park playground that has slides, swings, climbing gym, volleyball court, and horse shoe courts.

Provisions like ice, beverages, and basic groceries are available at the Pine Point Store 4 miles away in downtown Potosi.

One Downside to RV Camping at Grant River

While we consider Grant River an A+ campground, some campers would downgrade that vote due to the fact of frequent trains running by. Seeing the trains is a neat experience for kids and train aficionados, but the noise of them passing can disrupt what are otherwise a very peaceful nighttime atmosphere.

All along the upper Mississippi River there are railroad tracks with active freight trains running day and night, so one downside of any campground near the Big River are the periodic trains that run overnight.

grant river campground site map
Grant River Camp Site Map

See our list of Best Great River Road RV Campgrounds from Dubuque, Iowa to Prescott, Wisconsin

Links to Nearby Travel and Visitor Attractions:

Great River Road Fall Color

Winona to Wabasha Fall Color Drive

One of the favorite fall color drive loops along the Minnesota-Wisconsin Great River Road stretches from Wabasha to Winona on both sides of the river.

In the third week of October 2017 we started our trip on the Minnesota side going north. In general we found the colors on the Minnesota side more vibrant and varied. I think the difference may be in the sun exposure affecting the distribution of the species of trees and the progress of color change. The Minnesota side faces north-east, whereas the Wisconsin side faces south-west.

Bluff View LaCrosse
One of the many scenic overlooks along the Wisconsin-Minnesota Great River Road

Best week for Peak Color along the River Road

Because the predominate deciduous trees along the river bluffs (oaks, maples, basswood, birch, etc.) change color at different times “Peak Color” can be an impossible dream. If you are earlier in the season you’ll catch more maples, ash and walnut changing, with yellows, oranges and lime green. If you are later in the season you’ll catch more oaks with deep red hues and some yellows from birch trees.  But usually when the oaks and birch are most outstanding, the leaves have fallen from the ash, maples, and walnuts.

So our recommendation is just go when you know there will be some color and nice weather. Enjoy whatever combination mother nature presents at the time.

The Ashes were turning along the Minnesota Great River Road between La Crescent and Winona.

Best Direction of Travel for Good Fall Color

We noticed in traveling both sides of the river from Southern Wisconsin that the view along the Wisconsin side traveling south was more colorful than the views traveling north along the Wisconsin Great River Road. So our recommended loop for the best color is going south on the Wisconsin side from Nelson, Wisconsin through Fountain City, Wisconsin and across the river from Winona, MN. For travelers going north we recommend the Minnesota side from Winona to Wabasha. Bridges cross the river at both Wabasha and Winona facilitating this loop.

Great River Road Fall Color Pictures

From Just south of Winona looking across the river at Wisconsin’s Perrot State Park and the Trempealeau National Wildlife Refuge

Brady Mountain, Perrot State Park.
In the background Brady Mountain, Perrot State Park.
Trempealeau Mountain
Perrot State Park. In the background Trempealeau Mountain

Reick’s Lake Park is north of Alma, Wisconsin at the mouth of the Buffalo River as it enters the Mississippi. It has several nice RV sites along the shoreline and is on the migration route for Tundra Swans and White Pelicans.

Reick's Lake Park
Looking east from one of the RV sites at Reick’s Lake Park.
Reick's Lake Park
Those are white pelicans middle right in the photo.

Nelson Creamery – Wisconsin Great River Road
A popular stop for fall color tourists for lunch, ice cream, and Wisconsin Cheese in a historic creamery along the River Road

Nelson Creamery Outdoor Dining
On a sunny day the Creamery’s secluded patio offers a most pleasing dining experience.

Links – More Scenic Drives along the Mississippi River

Wisconsin Great River Road – Winona to Red Wing
with links to visitor websites for Winona, Fountain City, and Alma.

Minnesota Great River Road – Red Wing to Wabasha
with photos and article on Wabasha and National Eagle Center.

Winona to Wabasha

Great River Road Map & Article Directory

Click on map to go to Great River Road map and directory page

Nelson Creamery Great River Road

Nelson Creamery

Restaurant Review – Nelson Creamery, Nelson Wisconsin

People shopping for cheese, lining up at the ice cream counter, and placing their luncheon order.

About 50 cars filled the Nelson Creamery customer parking lot on a Thursday afternoon in little Nelson, Wisconsin on Hwy 35 – the Wisconsin Great River Road Scenic Byway. Same thing happened last year. We were through Nelson last year mid-week about the same time for our annual fall River Road Color tour and the parking lot was full then and in fact there was somewhat of a traffic jam in front of the Creamery as people were looking for street-side parking. Lots of people sitting on benches in front and walking around eating ice cream cones. So we figured the Nelson Creamery must have some terrific ice cream to get so many people to stop here. Last year stopping just wasn’t on our plans, plus it was really crowded. But we made a note of a must stop the next time we were passing through.

Nelson Cheese Factory Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
So October 19, 2017, on our fall color drive from Winona to Wabasha, we did stop, initially to get an ice cream cone but ended up getting lunch as well. Once inside the Creamery we discovered ice cream isn’t the only reason people stop there. They have a huge selection of Wisconsin cheeses, an extensive wine collection, a wine tasting room, and indoor and outdoor seating for dining. Great sandwiches, soup and pizza bring people here as much as the ice cream. There were two separate ordering lines, both quite full. One for ice cream, one for lunch food service. At the luncheon counter, you order your sandwich or pizza, pay for the food, leave your name and seating location (inside or out) and a server will bring you your order when ready.

On a sunny day the Creamery’s secluded patio offers a most pleasing dining experience.

It was a pleasant sunny day so we dined in their cozy outdoor patio. The food service was courteous and fast. The wait for our order wasn’t very long considering they were quite busy. Kudos to the management for good staffing levels and competent help. Our hot toasted Pita Veggie Sandwiches were jam-packed with garlic hummus, guacamole, kalamata olives, cucumber, red pepper, tomato, onion, sprouts & feta cheese. Super yummy. The sandwich menu is quite extensive and there are soups and salad too, plus their personal pizza offerings.

Good food, reasonable prices, fast service, nice ambiance inside and out. We can see why Nelson Creamery is a favorite among travelers on the Great River Road.

Links:

Nelson Creamery – Nelson, Wisconsin

Upper Mississippi Great River Road Scenic Drive

A fall scene between Alma and Nelson along Hwy 35, Wisconsin’s Great River Road Scenic Byway.


Great River Road Map & Article Directory

Click on map to go to Great River Road map and directory page

Potosi Brewery Pub & Restaurant

Potosi Brewery Restaurant

Potosi Brewery Pub Restaurant Dining Review

Potosi Brewery Tap Room
The Potosi Bar and Tap Room is a beautiful combination of old and new.

One of the attractions along the Wisconsin side of the Great River Road north of Dubuque is visiting the historic Potosi Brewery. A worthwhile visit for a brewery tour and the fantastic National Brewery Museum, but they also have a great restaurant.

Potosi Brewing Hospitality Bar
Jo enjoying a stein of Gandy Dancer Porter in the tap room.

Located in the southern end of the historic Potosi Brewery, the pub and restaurant is a blend of old and new with modern furnishings and an artisan-crafted bar walled by the old sandstone block foundation decorated with old Potosi Brewery signs. Up to 8 Potosi brews are on-tap, offering a variety of styles. We were pleased to see their Gandy Dancer Porter was among the featured on-tap brews.

Potosi Brewery Restaurant, Pub & Beer Garden Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

The restaurant menu features sandwiches and wraps plus a few entres. Jo had the grilled chicken breast with walnut sauce and I had their Reuben sandwich. We both elected steamed broccoli as our side dish. The Reuben served on wonderful marbled rye bread with melted Wisconsin Swiss Cheese and sauerkraut on corned beef was served hot and delicious. Good thing the table setting included lots of extra napkins because the Reuben was finger-licken good! The broccoli side dish was perfect – crispy fresh florets served hot but not overcooked. Jo loved her chicken breast covered with walnut seasoning and served on a bed of rice, a combination she will want to try at home. Very large portion sizes, so Jo got to take home half her meal for a snack the next day. Her serving of broccoli was as perfect as mine. Price-wise the menu was reasonable as were the tap beers. Some brew-pub restaurants seem to charge a premium just for the experience of eating and drinking there. Potosi is the exception.

Potosi Brewing Reuben Sandwich
My tasty Reuben sandwich overflowing with mouth-watering goodness!

Had the day not been so hot (91 degrees) we would have enjoyed dining in the outdoor beer garden.

Service-wise, the bar and table service was above par. I think the staff enjoys the Potosi working environment and this shows in their service.

One tip for prospective diners. If you take the Brewery Museum tour prior to dining, you can get a chit for a free 12 ounce tap brew in the restaurant after your tour.

Potosi and Great River Road Links

Our Article on the Potosi Brewery Brewing Museum

Potosi Brewery Website

Potosi Brew Pub Menu

Great River Road Scenic Drive – Savannah to Dubuque

Breitbach Country Tavern – Iowa’s Oldest Pub

Potosi Brewery | River Road Attractions

historic potosi brewery

Potosi Brewery and the National Brewery Museum

A mini-museum is part of the Great River Road Interpretive Center.

The Potosi Brewery located in the river town of Potosi began operations in 1852 and became one of Wisconsin’s largest breweries with a nationwide distribution. But due to the consolidation going on in the brewing industry had to close its doors in 1972. The building remained vacant for several years until revived in the 2008 following a $7.5 million restoration. The brewery is also home to the National Brewery Museum, the Great River Road Interpretive Center, a gift shop, and a brewpub, restaurant, and beer garden.

The brewery also offers guided brewery tours that include a guided tour through their state-of-the-art production facility, four 5-oz beer samples in the Brewery Tasting Room while watching an informational video, a Potosi pint glass from the gift shop and one pint of the Potosi tap beer of your choice from the Brewpub.

Located across the street in the old Potosi Bottling Plant is the the Whispering Bluffs Winery and tasting room, the Bottle House Gifts and Ice Cream Shop, and other artisan shops.

Potosi National Brewery Museum

national brewery museum
The signs, bottles, and memorabilia abound, bringing back memories and an interesting history of American brewing.

The National Brewery Museum is located on the second and third floors of the brewery. There are several rooms of collections of brewery signs, photographs, cans and bottles and other memorabilia from breweries and former breweries across the country. Many of these collections are loaned to the museum by private collectors. There are also exhibits of antique brewing and bottling machines and several touch screen audio-visual stations with a variety of brewery and brewing programming.

A person could easily spend hours touring the various exhibits, reading the stories and looking at the photographs of various breweries that are now extinct. Some of these breweries that disappeared were quite large operations.

My wife Jo was surprised to learn that there was a brewery in her former hometown of Highland, Wisconsin. It ceased operations during World War II so it wasn’t around when she came into this world. But from photographs in the exhibit, the building itself was still around in 1960. So we are curious if it still exists today. (See pix).

At one point in the history of Wisconsin brewing it seemed like any town of a few thousand people had a brewery.

Being from Wisconsin, we were most interested in the history of Wisconsin breweries. It is amazing the huge number of them that existed in an earlier era. It seemed any village of even a modest size had a brewery. One reason for the large number of breweries is Wisconsin’s germanic ancestry; immigrants brought with them the taste and technology of their favorite adult beverage. Another reason was the lack of modern refrigeration. This meant a breweries service area was limited to about 15 miles from the brewery. This was especially true prior to advent of the automobile.

Like many industries, brewing went through a period of consolidation. Refrigeration and the automobile, plus improvements in bottling operations greatly expanded the potential geographic market for brews. Larger breweries bought out smaller operations or just put them out of business through the market-place competition. The prohibition era put economic stress on some operations; those that survived switched to brewing soft drinks or non-alcoholic beers. Shortages of materials during World War II and men engaged in war put more stress on marginal operations. Today, some historic brand names still exist, like Pabst and Schlitz, but they are no longer independently brewed. They are just labels on a can or bottle coming from a Miller Brewing facility.

Jo was surprised to learn her former home town of little Highland, Wisconsin had a brewery.

Going through the exhibits brought back memories of brands that were advertised when I was a kid and no longer around. Fox Deluxe is one I remember. Also memories of beers I drank as a young man that are no longer: Meister Brau, Gettleman’s, Old Style, Hamms (from the land of sky blue waters), to name a few. One I tried once and from the taste I recall it made sense this one disappeared: Chief Oshkosh. It came in unique value-priced eight pack cartons and was economy both in price and taste! My favorite beer from my youth was Leinenkugels as it was only available in Northern Wisconsin where we traveled for vacation each summer from Chicago. Leines still exists and is brewed in Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin. It is still run by the Leinenkugel family although Miller Brewing is now its parent company.

We would have stayed longer and especially I’d like to sit and watch more of the audio-visual productions. But we were two hours past our lunchtime and we were getting quite hungry.

While there is a small free museum on the first floor featuring the history of the Potosi Brewery, there is a fee for touring the National Brewery Museum. But it is a very good deal because it includes a chit for a brew from the pub after your tour. And they had a senior rate which made it an exceptional deal! See our Potosi Brewery Pub and Restaurant Review.

Links:

 

Breitbach Tavern Balltown Iowa

Breitbach Country Tavern – Restaurant Review

Billing itself as “. . . Iowa’s oldest food & drinking establishment” Breitbach’s was originally built in 1852 and has been run by six generations of the family since 1862. Current owners Mike and Cindy Breitbach have several of their children on site working in the kitchen, waiting tables, washing dishes, or tending to the bar ensuring that in time there will be a seventh generation continuing the family tradition.

The dining area is spacious and comfortable with a few antique touches.

We first discovered Breitbach’s in 2006 while taking our first trip along Iowa’s Great River Road north of Dubuque. At that time the original structure, built in 1852, still existed. (See photos below). It was a neat old building filled with 150 years of antique furnishings and memorabilia collected over the years. Besides a step-back-in-time to a genuine old fashioned country tavern, the food itself was genuine home-cooking. In addition to the delicious Iowa Pork Chops, I recall the most extensive and flavorful salad bar I’d ever experienced.

Since that original visit we’ve returned several times. Unfortunately, in 2007 the original Breitbachs burned to the ground in a gas explosion and fire. Almost all the antiques and collections from several generations were destroyed. A new Breitbach’s now occupies the original foundation. The dining area is much larger and is finished in beautiful oak beams and trim with some nice touches of antiques here and there. But nothing could replace the charm of the old 1800s era building and its contents.

All you can eat Buffet draws people from long distances to tiny Balltown Iowa.

However what hasn’t changed is the Breitbach family is still there running the place. Great small town service and excellent home cooking featuring famous Iowa Beef and Pork. On our most recent visit in October 2017 we caught their fantastic all-you-can-eat Dinner Buffet. We had a choice of beer battered cod, beef tips, popcorn shrimp, and broasted chicken. All excellent tasting, hot and moist. Jo particularly loved the homemade noodles, reminding her of those her grandmother used to make. Mashed potatoes, gravy, and corn rounded out the main course. But then there’s the exceptional soup and salad bar completely homemade by Cindy Breitbach and her kitchen crew. Still the best and most varied salad bar I’ve ever had. So much delicious food and even though I stuffed myself I couldn’t sample everything. Well that leaves more for next time.

From the Balltown scenic overlook, looking towards the Mississippi River bluffs. Wisconsin in background at top of picture.

Next to dining at Breitbach’s Balltown’s most notable attraction is the scenic lookout over the Mississippi River valley. At 1185 feet in elevation it is the second highest point in Iowa. Our latest visit was mid-week so we missed the music and Octoberfest celebration in the beer garden behind the restaurant. We caught that one year and it was lots of fun. In October you can also catch some good color and scenic river overlooks along the Iowa River Road Scenic Byway from Balltown to Guttenberg.

Link: Breitbach Country Dining


Here’s some photos of the original Breitbach Country Tavern that stood on the same site for 150 years as the current more modern version.

 

Two months before the big Dec 24, 2007 fire. The current restaurant sits on the same site as the original.

The old dining room was very cozy and chock full of antiques and memorabilia everywhere!

My wife Jo loved this antique quilt hanging on the wall in the dining area off the bar.

The Beer Garden out back was the only structure that survived the fire.

Traveling the Great River Road Scenic Drive. We have several articles featuring travel along the Great River Road Scenic Byway(s) from Rock Island, Illinois to Red Wing, Wisconsin.

Historic Stillwater Minnesota

Historic Lowell Inn Stillwater Minnesota
We spent Thanksgiving at the historic Lowell Inn in Stillwater, Minnesota

Historic River Towns – Stillwater, Minnesota

With Jo’s sister Donna and husband Dan, this will be our fourth historic river town and historic hotel Thanksgiving weekend. Previously we have enjoyed Galena, Illinois and the DeSoto House Hotel (1855), Dubuque, Iowa and Hotel Julian (1854), and Red Wing, Minnesota and the St. James Hotel (1875).

Like other larger river towns downstream, Stillwater has done an excellent preserving its historic buildings and landmarks. It hosts the State’s oldest still standing courthouse and its unique Lift Bridge, constructed in 1931, is still in service. Former freight houses, mill structures, and beer caves now house shops, antique stores, restaurants, and bars. Many of the stately Victorian homes of lumber barons and merchants have been restored and are now B&Bs. Over 60 of these homes are designated landmarks. The city has a number of attractive parks with over 11 miles of walking and hiking trails. We took the historic downtown walking tour that took past several landmark buildings as well as up and down two of the five long stairways that separate the downtown area from the surrounding neighborhood bluffs. Pioneer Park located at the top of one of these stairways provides scenic views of both the river and downtown area.

Stillwater Hometown for the Holidays

Downtown Stillwater offered special holiday activities from November 29 thru December 31st. Main street holiday lights, shop Christmas window decorations, Victorian Carolers along historic Main Street, live reindeer with Santa and sleigh, free horse-drawn carriage rides along the St. Croix River, and shopping specials.

 

Dining Room Lowell Inn
Our table (left side of picture) awaits us in the elegant dining room of the Lowell Inn

Thanksgiving at the Lowell Inn

Listed on the Historic Registry, the Lowell Inn opened for business in 1927 and retains its elegance and charm. It has 35 rooms, each of which is uniquely furnished, and a classic colonial style dining room.

The comfortable hotel lobby is furnished with classic overstuffed leather chairs and sofas, beautiful dark wood trim and moldings, and unique antique fixtures and artisan appointments. The centerpiece is a large wood burning fireplace. The unique Matterhorn Room is filled with Swiss wood carvings, plaques, decorations, and two authentic and functional Black Forest cuckoo clocks.

The parlour off near the lobby has comfortable chairs and sofas set among interesting antique furnishings and artisan touches

Their Thanksgiving Buffet is very popular with hotel guests making up only a small portion of the diners. The entre’ selections were turkey, ham and roast beef, all quite moist, soaked in gravy or without, complemented by a large selection of vegetables, fruit, and salads. About four or five dessert selections finished off the meal. We had our reservations for 12:45 pm; there was also a morning buffet and a late afternoon serving time. But it seemed like there was a steady stream of diners waiting for tables from morning to early evening. A five star meal in an elegant dining atmosphere for $19.95 helps explain the popularity.

We had breakfast at the hotel the next morning and found the food and wait service equally top-notch. Jo ordered her eggs medium-hard and mine were over easy and each was done exactly right and hot. The eggs were served with the thick slices of toast that melted in your mouth. My tomato juice was in a long-stemmed wine glass – nice touch. Water glasses kept constantly full as were our cups kept full with the top quality, fresh brewed coffee. (We home roast our own coffee beans so we feel we know good coffee from average). You can see more photos and info on the Lowell Inn under “Links” lower down  the page.

 

Downtown Stillwater Minnesota
Downtown Stillwater is full of shops, boutiques, restaurants and bars all housed in restored and well-preserved historic buildings like this 125 year old building at Main and Chestnut Streets

Stillwater Restaurants & Dining

If good food and service were our main priority, we should have eaten all our meals at the Lowell Inn, but we wanted to experience some of the other Stillwater dining establishments. We weren’t disappointed with our lunch at the Dock Café. Located on the river, with views of the river from every table, the Dock Café offers what I would call an upscale menu (How do I know it is upscale? Price and menus with difficult to pronounce descriptions!). Our salads, soups, and sandwiches were tasty and service was attentive. On the other hand we were disappointed with our Friday fish fry dinner at the Brine Restaurant and Bar located on Main Street. Slow and inattentive service. Worst french fries in memory – limp, cold, and tasteless. Baked beans from a can. The fish wasn’t too bad, lightly battered but three small pieces for $9.95 with the limp, untasty fries and beans was no deal. But on the positive side, they have an excellent selection of beers (including craft and imported) on tap and in bottles and not overly expensive. We scored again on the positive side the next morning: breakfast at the Main Café. They were busy, yet gave us prompt wait service and our food arrived in a timely manner. Nothing fancy in terms of decor or table service – just your very decent small town café giving good food and service at a fair price.

Next time we are in Stillwater we have to stop at Leo’s Grill and Malt Shop as the advertise the Best Burgers in Minnesota so we need to compare them against our findings in our Best Burgers of Duluth quest.

For more photos, maps, and info on Stillwater see our link to “Things to See and Do . . . ” further down the page.

Great River Road & St. Croix Trail

Gong north, the Wisconsin Great River Road actually completes its journey at Prescott, Wisconsin where the lazy Mississippi River coming from Northern Minnesota joins the wild and scenic St. Croix River that forms the border between Wisconsin and Minnesota. At this point the St. Croix inherits the character of the Upper Mississippi with its high bluffs and steep valleys. So in our travels we prefer to stay along the St. Croix versus following the Mississippi to St. Paul, Minnesota. To continue on the scenic river road, you cross the river at Prescott into Minnesota and then immediately turn north on Highway 21, the St. Croix Trail. You’ll pass Afton Alps Ski Area and then proceed under the I-94 Interstate Highway that joins Wisconsin and Minnesota. There the road changes to Minnesota Highway 95. Soon you’ll arrive in historic Stillwater, Minnesota – the birthplace of Minnesota. It was here in 1848 that territorial convention was held that began the process of making Minnesota a state. After Stillwater, the scenic St. Croix Trail continues north along the river until Taylor Falls and the St. Croix Interstate Park.

 

If you like walking and hiking for exercise, the downtown historic walking tour includes two stairways like this one.

Links

Things to See and Do in Stillwater

Stillwater Downtown Walking Tour

The Historic Lowell Inn

The Dock Cafe

Leo’s Grill & Malt Shop

St. Croix Scenic Byway

We hope to return to Stillwater next summer to explore more of what the town offers. Several of the restaurants have outdoor patios with views of the river and I’d like to do a more complete walking tour of the historic structures and homes. Next time I do one of the steep stairways between downtown and the surrounding bluffs, I’ll take a rest half-way up. Just about had a heart attack doing the stairs from the Warden’s House to Pioneer Park non-stop!

Happy Trails,

Roscoe